578.6km, 9323m of climbing. What a week!!

From the minute we arrived at the airport I knew that this was going to be a terrific experience for both me, as the rider, and my family. The team that Ryder has assembled are top notch and did everything they needed to, and more, to ensure that all campers enjoyed themselves. The fantasy part of the camp – getting treated like a pro, riding with pros, massages, etc – is terrific. And it truly fulfilled any fantasies I had about participating in a pro training camp. Sure it was over the top luxury – that’s what Four Season is all about. And sure we were able to ride at our pace, stopping when we wanted without the pressure of training; but this was a fantasy camp in paradise.

The majority of the campers were veterans having participated in previous years; it’s clear why they keep coming back. And it’s why you’ll find me in Maui next December!

Holy cow! That was likely the toughest mental and physical feat I’ve ever attempted. It took me roughly four hours to climb from Paia at sea level to the summit of Haleakala at 10023 feet. The first 4000 or so feet were a challenge like any other climb of 4000 feet (ha!) but it was the next 6823 that was the real killer.

The climb is the longest paved climb in the world, but it’s not the length alone that messes with you. It’s the unrelenting nature of the climb – it just keeps climbing at a near steady 6.5% the whole time. There are a few respites but even they feel like you’re going uphill when you’re not!!

We set out from Paia in beautiful sunshine and a pleasant 24 Celsius unsure of the weather at the summit. We were told to pack our winter gear as it could be really cold. Last year when the campers did the climb it was 24 Celsius at the base, and 5 Celsius and raining at the summit. With a cold wind. I think I rode the first 15 minutes with my fingers crossed hoping for good weather!

The first 8 miles or so of the climb was part of the ride we did on Monday. And not surprisingly this time it felt easier. Thankfully because the rest of the ride would be tough. At the main intersection in Makawao, we paused briefly for a couple of cars and then hit the first steep section of the day. My legs felt good as I got out of the saddle to pick up the pace. And that’s when my mind started to take over. If I push it now will I make it to the top? Maybe I should take this part easy so I can push it later.

Our group of eight riders was starting to shrink and over the course of the next 10km,​ I slowly dropped all seven until I was alone. And again my mind started… How am I dropping these guys? They’re at least as strong as me if not stronger. Am I going to burn out before the entrance to the park?

At Kula Lodge the support van was ready with resources – food, water, energy drinks – and positive comments assuring each and every rider that they would be able to do it. Our pack regroups and we set off for the summit – chasing down a couple of the riders who are out to set personal records. Just past Kula Lodge is the intersection for Crater Road – this is where the real fun begins. From this point onwards the road goes uphill. In a hurry. Over the course of 33 switchbacks! Again my mind wonders… I feel strong. I can do this. I’m keeping pace with a semi-pro rider, and am ahead of a couple of former Olympians. Wait. What? How is that possible? They must be riding easy to save energy for the upper slopes. I’m going to burn out and not make it. Oh no!

As we start into the switchbacks I overcome my mental questions and keep pedalling at the same pace. Just as on the first segment I slowly drop the riders I am with. The gap between them and me grows slowly but steadily… and then it starts shrinking. Slowly at first. And then they are riding with me. And then I’m behind them. And then I’m chasing them. And again my mind takes over… Is this how it ends? Am I going to have to turn around and head downhill because my legs and lungs have given up?

At 6500 feet we had another refueling with the team. This was the final chance to stock up on food and drinks, and take on additional clothing for our time at the summit, and for the descent. I grabbed a couple of gels, my wind jacket, gloves and shoe covers, and hit the road. It’s at this point that Ryder and Svein catch me. I ride with them for a bit, but their pace is too much for me and I’m quickly back to riding on my own.

One of the most amazing features of this climb is that the array of climates and ecosystems that you ride through. Rolling farm fields, thick woodlands, lush floral lands, grasslands, the clouds, volcanic wastelands, and more! This is what I started to think about after getting dropped by the pros.

On my own again I continued to the gates of the park where I caught three other riders – one of whom had a park pass and covered my $5 entry fee (bonus!!). From here you can see what you think/hope is the top of the mountain. This idea that I could see the summit inspired me to push on… only to quickly realize that there is still 3000 feet of climbing, and 21 km of riding. Uphill! What?!?!?

The next 90 minutes was a true test of my mental and physical strength. The air got thinner and cooler. My pace slowed, and my heart and lungs felt at times like they were coming out of my chest. Eventually I found a rhythm and just kept turning over the pedals, being sure to take in the sights and smells on my way to the top. Riding above the clouds and looking down the slope and seeing the roadway disappear  was truly an experience I’ll never forget. But just in case my memory starts to waver, I took a couple of photos. Here I’m thinking – hold on, ride straight, don’t look down, it’s a long drop off this cliff!!

From the ranger station to the final 2km I only saw one rider going uphill. And the only riders going downhill were Ryder and Svein. With a wink, a nod, and a “yeah Chris” from Ryder they flew past me racing towards the pizza and beer waiting for us at the bottom. I finished out the final 2km, battled the final 400meters – the steepest part of the climb – and enjoyed an icy cold Coke at the summit. The views of the crater, the clouds, and Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (more than 150km away) poking through the clouds were inspiring.

Here’s a shot of me at the top – in front of the shelter. I was completely gassed at this point, and anxious to get a drink, some food, and start the descent. As well here’s the elevation and speed chart from my Garmin.

Today was scheduled to be an easy day – just a couple of hours on the bike, a chance to get out and spin the legs in recovery mode after yesterday, and in preparatory mode for tomorrow. Unfortunately for me Leah and Norah were under the weather which kept me off the bike and in the role of Dad. Most of the kids at the hotel all have the same cough and cold. Norah’s has kept her up most nights, meaning that Leah has been up. The sleepless nights coupled with the cold and/or flu that’s going around finally caught up to her and Leah was out for the count. She spent most of the day sleeping. Ewan, Norah and I played in the pool for four hours before coming in for lunch and to check on Leah.

As well Norah is teething. And she’s not a happy camper. This along with the endless flow of slime from her nose, and phlegmy cough made for a challenging day.

The riders took it easy as planned, and were all back before noon having left at 9:30.

Strava tells me my Suffer Score of 286 qualifies this ride as EPIC. And it was. 143.2km over the course of 5 hours and 12 minutes of riding.

We started from the same spot as our ride on Monday (at an elevation of 905 metres) and descended for roughly an hour. It was slower today as the roads were wet in many areas, and there were a few dumptrucks and other construction vehicles on the road. I was a bit disappointed as I wanted to really hammer it now that I had a bit of a feel for the road.

As we hit the end of the first descent the road went from perfect pavement to the exact opposite. The “road” was more patches than pavement. And it was CRAZY rough. My hands were sore from trying to hold on to the bars. Our instructions prior to setting out on this stretch were to keep it in a big gear and keep pedalling. Yeah right! With 17% climbs stretching for 500 metres there was no way to stay in the big ring!

The road circumnavigates the eastern side of Maui, crossing through farmland, coastal fields, and lush tropical rain forests. The road itself goes from perfect pavement, to the worst road in the world, to a red dirt road, to a skinny lane way, to patchy pavement, before returning to a super smooth newly paved highway.

As we cleared the really rough stretch the rains came down – which was to be expected as we were making the turn to the east side of the mountain and into the rainforest. It actually rains almost all the time in the rainforest! The rain coupled with the dramatic changes in elevation made the roads all the more treacherous. Thankfully we only had one crash; a rider slid out at the bottom of a turn on a steel road plate made super slick from the rain and dirt.

The dirt roads were a welcome respite from the previous patchwork road, but challenging nonetheless. It was the first time I’d ridden so hard, in such conditions, on dirt roads and am happy to report that both bike and rider exceeded expectations!

The challenging dirt roads gave way to an awe inspiring oceanside road that we followed for 10k or so. The sights an sounds along this stretch of roadway were phenomenal. The salty air of the ocean crossed with the hot, humid, and sweet smells of the forest every time we ducked under the cover of the trees, made for a sensory experience I won’t soon forget.

It should be noted that turing this stretch at any point where the road turned inland, it also turned upward. Quickly. The short, steep climbs were a real workout and quickly spread the riders out along the route. On multiple occasions my rear wheel spun out as I tried to pedal hard on the slick surfaces. Perfect balance on the bike was required to keep moving.

Slowly but surely the roads got wider, and drier, and smoother. Thankfully. We stopped for a quick refuelling – sucking back gels, replenishing bottles, etc – and then set a course for the beach – roughly 90km out. And we still had 1500 metres of climbing to go! We pulled out of the rest stop and the road immediately turned uphill. And continued uphill for the next 24km. Through this climb and the corresponding descent we passed dozens of waterfalls, each one with it’s own swimming hole at the bottom – calling my name and asking my why I was choosing to suffer rather than swim. I was hurting by this point and the lack of long training rides was starting to show.

We stopped once more for a quick refuel. Thankfully. I don’t know if it was the knowledge that there was only 50km to go, or the handfuls of peanut butter filled pretzels that I devoured, but my strength was back and I was ready to ride with the pros. I had been told that there was a big climb to start so it would be wise to get a head start as the pros would hammer this climb. I took the advice and headed out early. They caught me close to the peak. I hung with them for a while but slowly fell off the pack. Over the next 45km or so I was solo, in no man’s land between the leaders and the chasers. I picked off all of the riders that fell of the pros group, and ended up finishing only a couple minutes behind the leaders. It’s not a race by any means but it felt good to finish strong and only be a couple minutes back of the pack.

The ride finished in Pa’ia – Maui’s Coolest Little Town. Also home to Maui Cyclery – the support shop for the camp. We had a homemade meal on the beachside pavilion – sandwiches, salads, chips, chocolate, beer – everything I wanted post-ride.

So far this week I’ve ridden 464.6km with 6247 meters of climbing. Thursday is scheduled to be an easy day – only a couple hours on the bike. Friday is the big day – Haleakala! 56 km with 3037 metres of climbing.

Today was a rest day. Instead of riding we went to the beach. And learned to Stand Up Paddle surf with two-time world SUP champion Kai Lenny, and the godfather of the sport, former top ranked surfer Dave Kalama.

After surfing, or at least attempting to surf, for a couple of hours we had a terrific lunch on the beach, before returning to the hotel to spend the rest of the day doing whatever we wanted.

The rest was enjoyed, and necessary. Tomorrow we have a BIG day of riding.

We loaded into the vans on this muggy morning and made the 25 minute drive to the town of Maalaea. Once there we unloaded and suited up. It was only 8:30am but the temperature was up around 25°C. And it only got hotter from there! We rolled out at a brisk 38km/h for just about 40km. We cut off the main road and detoured through the quaint town of Lahaina. It was nice to look at but not great for riding – lots of slow moving cars, sewer grates, and crosswalks. But I’m glad we took the detour as it was a neat town to see.

After rejoining the main road we followed the coast line all the way around the head of Maui, on what seemed like a road built for cycling. Amazing vistas, very little traffic, and a constant up and down profile made for an amazing day on the bike. And it was HOT. Crazy hot. The locals commented that it was probably the hottest day they remembered on this side of the island. When we stopped for some shave ice, banana bread and a Coke at Lorraine’s our sweep van driver said his in-car thermometer read 99°F.

Once we were all hopped up on caffeine and sugar we got back on our bikes to complete the loop. We were immediately faced with a tough climb – rough road, treacherous cliffs, and a steep grade. At what I thought was the top of the climb we were presented with more climbing. And then descending. And then more climbing. This up-and-down roller coaster kept up for another 10k or so before we finally started the descent back towards Wailuku.

On this day, unlike pretty much every other day in the history of Maui, we had a head wind as we rode south along Honoapiilani Highway. So a 7.2km stretch on which riders can average 45km/h+ we averaged roughly half that speed. Very disappointing as I was feeling strong and wanted to drill it.

For a more detailed look, here are the ride details on Garmin Connect. (Note the temperature chart – we hit highs of 33° Celsius!

Our camp is based at the beautiful Four Seasons Wailea on the island of Maui. Ryder has a home on the island and uses it as a base for off season training. A number of other riders visit him to train as the variety and quality of the roads is incredible. And it’s all very accessible. Windswept flats, rolling hills, and giant mountain climbs can be found at almost every turn!

The routine for the camp is designed to simulate much of what the pros get at their team training camps. We start with a team breakfast, have a meeting in the team room about the days plan, change into our gear, hop into the vans and head to the riding destination for the day.

On the road we have multiple support vehicles, and support riders (in addition to the pros). The van support team will fix flats or other mechanical issues, supply food or drinks, or give you a lift if you need it. When the mechanics assembled our bikes they did not include our seat bags – because we don’t need it. We are fully supported.

While riding the pros and guides mix with the riders as if we are all club members out for a regular club ride. It’s not a situation where they ride and we chase. We are all riding together.

After the ride we turn our bikes over to the mechanics who clean them, adjust anything that needs adjusting and then prep them for the next day.

We then head off to the team lunch. It’s buffet style and held in an area away from the restaurants and other hotel guests. A nice selection of salads, sandwiches, pasta and dessert is provided.

There are four masseuses available to us – and one hour massages are enjoyed from 3pm to 6pm. After that we are on our own for the evening.

Wow. This was a crazy day of riding. We started out in the van and headed uphill. At the top of the climb we got out and hopped on our bikes for a 33km descent along an absolutely breathatking stretch of road. The road had recently been resurfaced, and it was nearly free of traffic, completely void of intersections, stop signs, traffic lights, etc. And there were only a handful of driveways.

Again I followed the pros down with about 6 other riders. And again they took lines through the corners that were impressive, technical, and damned challenging for me. My speed topped out at 72.2km’h for me but it certainly could’ve been faster as there were many stretches where we were just following, not pedalling or pushing it.

Once we made it to the bottom we turned around and started back up. 33km uphill. It was tough. Made tougher by the craziest wind storm I can recall. At a few points I was riding into a headwind with a tailwind, and a crosswind. All at the same time! The winds brought down hundreds of bits of the trees and other vegetation lining the road. And it kicked up the dust. Lots of it. At a few points it was so dusty I couldn’t see more than about 50 feet in front of me.

Eventually the “storm” passed and I made it to the top of the climb. I thought the ride was over and switched my brain over to thinking of food, a shower, etc. But it was at this point that the suggestion was made to ride the remaining 40k or so back to the hotel. This sounded good to me as much of it was downhill, and the final stretch is quite flat. The downhill portion was great. The ride guides here seem to know every single road, and more specifically know which ones are the best for cycling. Pulehu Road. Awesome.

At the bottom of the descent we dashed across a 2km stretch of asphalt that was possibly the worst stretch of pavement in the known universe. I now know what riding the cobbles in Roubaix must feel like.

At the end of the worst stretch of pavement in the world we turned south and into a killer headwind. Coupled with the wind was dust. Lots of it. Crazy amounts of it. I was filthy. And I was falling off the pace of the leaders and decided that I should probably pack it in and ride in the van back to the hotel. The leaders were killing it, despite the wind, and I was not.

Here are the ride details on Strava.

However when I met up with the van I was encouraged to continue on with a “Hey, it’s only 10 more miles!!” So with Spencer as my leadout man we set off for the hotel. A couple kilometres into the ride we turned off the main road and hit the coast road. This was just what I needed and we kicked up the pace hammering it back for the next 14km averaging close 40km’h. Either the wind died down, was blocked by the vegetation and buildings, or I just needed that momentary break – but the result was positive.

Here are the ride details on Strava.

Post-ride was shower, lunch, an hour or so in the pool/hot tub, and then dinner.

It started at 6:00am for breakfast followed by team meeting at 8:00am. Or at least I thought it was 8:00am. It was 7:00 and at 7:45 when I rolled in the meeting was pretty much done. Everyone was totally cool about it and caught me up on the plan. The bikes had been loaded on the vans and we were going to make the 30 minute drive to Paia where we’d start our ride from Maui Cyclery. The drive over to the starting point was fun as I sat with Tyler Farrar and Svein Tuft. They answered all of my questions and chatted openly – no arrogance nor any hints of being protective, etc.

Arriving at Maui Cyclery our bikes were ready for riding, loaded with two bottles each – one with water, one with an electrolyte-replacement drink, a table of foods and supplements was available, and the guides, mechanics and helpers were all in great spirits to send us on our way.

The ride started with a second category 10k climb up Baldwin. I wanted to push myself a bit and see how my cracked rib would react, and how much it would impede my riding. Thankfully it was OK, and although it restricted my a bit it was definitely bearable. On the ride up my group fell behind a bit so I decided to bridge the gap to the lead bunch. As our group pulled away from the pack we could look back at points and see the chase group. I think we had a few minutes on Ryder but the reality was it didn’t matter. He came across the gap, up the hill, like were standing still. It was quite impressive to see how quickly he closed on our lead group (which in included Tyler Farrar and Svein Tuft, although they were just cruising.)

Decent was fast and furious. The patchwork asphalt made for some harrowing moments for the joes, but not for the pros. Drafting and watching Ryder and Tyler descend (in their matching team kits) was a great thrill. The lines they carved were perfect, and in many cases too demanding and technical for me to take.

We cut through a section of rain forest with a serpentine winding road. Once getting to the end of the road we joined the Hana highway and rode as a group along North Shore and back to Maui Cyclery. Once there we discussed the options: hopping in the van, riding the direct route back to the hotel, or extending the ride with Ryder, Tyler and Svein – I went with the pros. So did Rob from Orillia. I was surprised that no one else did as this is a cycling trip to ride with the pros. I’m taking every opportunity to ride, especially when it’s with the pros.

We did another 80k with a fun climb filled with precarious drop offs, and a terribly rough and winding upper portion. On the decent again I gave chase to the pros only to see first hand how much faster and confident they are on their bikes. The tail end of the ride was ridden at a nice pace, with me enjoying the draft behind Ryder and Svein.

Here’s my ride on Strava.

Back at hotel we handed the bikes back to the mechanics and headed for lunch. Just like breakfast the food was terrific.

Post lunch we all had massages. I think I fell asleep a couple of times. Only thing that kept me awake was when the masseuse put pressure on my back causing pressure on my cracked rib. Otherwise it was an amazing way to end the day – getting a pro rider massage after riding 110k with three pros, and a phenomenal group of joes.